Seoul in 2010

According to a recent NY Times article, Seoul is one of 31 places you should visit in 2010. Good thing I got an early start by visiting in December/January. Here's the excerpt:

Forget Tokyo. Design aficionados are now heading to Seoul. They have been drawn by the Korean capital’s glammed-up cafes and restaurants, immaculate art galleries and monumental fashion palaces like the sprawling outpost of Milan’s 10 Corso Como and the widely noted Ann Demeulemeester store - an avant-garde Chia Pet covered in vegetation. And now Seoul, under its design-obsessed mayor, Oh Se-hoon, is the 2010 World Design Capital. The title, bestowed by a prominent council of industrial designers, means a year’s worth of design parties, exhibitions, conferences and other revelries. Most are still being planned (go to wdc2010.seoul.go.kr for updates). A highlight will no doubt be the third annual Seoul Design Fair (Sept. 17 to Oct. 7), the city’s answer to the design weeks in Milan and New York, which last year drew 2.5 million people and featured a cavalcade of events under two enormous inflatable structures set up at the city’s Olympic stadium.

I've gone to Seoul quite a bit this year and it gets nicer and nicer every time I go. There's tons to see, do and eat and Seoul is such a fun city to roam around in and public transportation makes it so easy. I'll share with you some of the areas my cousins and I visited this time around.

Cheonggyecheon Stream

It used to be an elevated freeway in the middle of the city, but five years ago they did a massive restoration project to create an urban, recreational space and to reestablish the running stream that had since dried out. My mom claims it was a major eyesore when the freeway was there, but now, it's a beautiful place to rest and relax in the middle of downtown Seoul. During the summer, it's packed with people cooling off, enjoying the cool breeze from the running stream. Even in the dead of winter, it was quite lovely.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Gyeongbokgung is an old royal palace situated right in the middle of modern Seoul. It was first built in 1394 during the Joseon Dynasty, later destroyed by the Japanese in the early 20th century and is still being restored to its original form. It's very historic and is a lovely oasis from the hustle and bustle of the city right outside its walls.

Kimchi Field Museum (Coex Mall)

The Kimchi Field Museum is a really small museum that explains the history of kimchi and shows plastic displays of different types of kimchi. Kind of cute, but it would be really cool if they had Korean grandmas making kimchi there. Wishful thinking, huh? It would be very informative to someone who is new to Korean cuisine though.

Gangnam

The area around Gangnam subway station has a lot of restaurants, bars and cafes and is known for its nightlife. It's also now known as the "U-street" not for its shape, but because it allows "ubiquitous" access to the Internet and media. What's up with Koreans using American words or terms to refer to certain areas in Seoul? (Why, oh why, would you want to have a "Rodeo" Street in Apgujeong? Sorry for the digression.) Do you see the tall white LCD display thing next to Baskin Robbins? That's one of 22 media poles showing various images and ads facing the road side. There are constant multimedia images being projected on it.

If you walk up to these poles, you will see that there are ads on the top and at eye level, they have these touch screen that allows people to search maps, read the news and check transportation information. No fret, you don't have to know Korean to use these media poles, you can read the information in English, Chinese and Japanese. You can even play video games (my cousin Allen will appreciate this feature) and can also send yourself an email postcard, yes, these media poles even take pictures of you. I didn't get to verify it, but apparently, these media poles also provide free wifi. They are working on teleportation features for next year. I kid, I kid.

Myeongdong

Myeongdong is basically a shopping area, but there's tons of good eateries nearby. It's especially fun at night when street vendors come out in full force selling clothing, accessories and our favorite, street food. It's jammed pack at night and on the weekends.

Insadong

Insadong is known for its antiques, artwork and Korean crafts. I love the pottery here. The district is known for its traditional Korean cuisine as well.

Hangang Park

Hangang Park is a park right along the Han River where city dwellers can get some fresh air while walking, running or biking. They have basketball courts, soccer fields and several outdoor exercise equipment. For those that want to just enjoy the view, there are several restaurants and cafes set up along the river as well. During the summer, you'll even see some ferry boats and jet skiers. Here's a gorgeous sunset my mom and I saw one day while going on a walk.

I hope you enjoyed my recap of my Korea and Vietnam trip. I hope you guys get to visit Seoul for yourself soon along with the other 30 places to see in 2010.

Pete - guess which country is on the list?

Kangnung Yetnal Jip - Seoul, Korea (Nonhyung-Dong)

This has been a favorite of our family's for years. It's called Kangnung Yetnal Jip (old house in Kangnung, which is a city in the northeastern province of South Korea). Each province is known for its regional specialties and distinctive styles.

Here's the front entrance. They specialize in han jung shik meals here.

You walk into a big foyer where you will most likely see several tables set up. You go inside to one of several rooms and sit on the floor. You will see that you do not have a table in front of you. But fear not, once they have all the side dishes prepared, they put it on the table outside and two people will carry it over and put it in front of you. There's something so satisfying about seeing a table full of side dishes magically appear before you.

We ordered the 20,000 won per person meal, which suits us just fine. There are different price ranges and you get nicer entrees the more you spend per person. If you come here for dinner, certain courses come with bossam kimchi, which is really hard to find apparently. It has chestnuts, pine nuts, jujubes, oysters and other ingredients in it and the cabbage leaves are wrapped up like a tight flower bud.

Our lunch included a plate of bossam of the porky kind not kimchi, which is boiled pork that you eat with napa cabbage and spicy radish. They also make their own tofu.

A multitude of side dishes featuring jap chae (glass noodles with vegetables) and other seasoned vegetables.

Some sashimi.

Homemade rice cake with some red beans.

Some sort of seasoned fish.

This plate of fish jun (battered in egg and flour and lightly fried), kimchi pancakes and fried zucchini came later.

Why is the rice yellow you ask? It's because they cook it with mineral water that they bring directly from Suraksan Mountain. I don't know if it has magical powers, but the rice is really chewy and nutty and the aroma is really addicting.

Grilled fish and doengjang jjigae (soy bean stew) also came out as well. Doengjang jjigae here is really dark and a bit on the salty side. I guess that's what it tastes like in Kangnung.

You scoop out the rice from the dolsot (stone pot) and you are left with a thin crust of

scorched rice. You add some hot water and let it sit for awhile to make nurungji bap (scorched rice), which becomes a watery porridge-like consistency.

This restaurant is on one of Seoul's many little side roads, but the best way to describe it is that it's on a parallel street right behind the Imperial Palace Hotel in Nonhyung-Dong.

Kangnung Yetnal Jip

(02) 516-2002 and 548-3120

Naegang - Seoul, Korea (City Hall)

So while we're eating at Boo Kukgook Jip with Jung, my grandfather and my mom, my mom tells us, don't get too full, there's a good bibimbap place next door that we should try. We're eating again??? That's what happens when it's Jung's last day and my mom is trying to trying to squeeze in as many meals as possible.

After we finished our meal next door, we went into this tiny restaurant called Naegang which was literally two doors down. They specialize in home cooked, doengjang bibimbap (steamed rice with mixed vegetables with soybean paste).

You walk in through this glass door and sit down along the walls. There's only a bar along the side with stools underneath, no tables. As soon as you sit down, they will bring you a plate of doengjang bibimbap, that's the only thing on the menu.

You will see a line of metal bowls against the wall filled with different side dishes from bean sprouts to marinated perilla leaves to pickled chili peppers. My mom told us that we have to try the dried radish strips, which was really good. It seriously feels like you're eating at your sigol (countryside) grandma's house. I never had a real sigol grandma, but this is what I imagine she'd feed me. There are two grandmothers who are there and they both took turns asking us if we wanted more rice or more soup and calling us agga, which means little one in Korean. It totally felt like I was a five-year-old kid eating at my grandma's house in the countryside. It couldn't have been tastier either.

They give you a bowl of kimchi and tofu soup to eat with your bibimbap. Here, you don't use gochujang or red chili paste, rather you get seasoned doengjang to mix with your steaming bowl of white rice and mixed veggies.

You mix it up and eat. Seriously nothing beats a home cooked meal in the countryside. They always have such great vegetables that have real, distinct flavors.

I was so full from the boo kukgook, but I couldn't put the spoon down. It was soo good. I wish I could literally transport this place, with the grandmas in tow with me to LA so I can stop by every so often when I'm craving a home cooked meal. Eating a home-cooked meal like this with this many side dishes is hard. You can't really get this at a restaurant and to cook like this at home is too much effort.

My mom told the grandma that she brought us here so we can eat this on our last day before heading back to the states. She then took a plastic bag and packed us a bag full of nurunji (scorched rice pieces) that she had saved. I think this is in all grandmother's manuals ... to make sure no visitor leaves without taking something back with them. My own grandma does this all the time. Last time I was in Boston, it was cheonggukjang (fermented soybean) paste, which I insisted would stink up my luggage and the airplane, but there's no winning over grandma.

The doengjang bibimbap costs 5,500 won, but I think you get much more than a tasty meal. You get to eat a home cooked meal under the tutelage of a Korean grandma. She'll constantly put food on your plate and ask you if you want more of this or more of that and even packs you a snack to go. It's a stomach-filling and heart-warming place.

Naegang

(02) 777-9419

Boo Kukgook Jip - Seoul, Korea (City Hall)

The day we arrived in Seoul from Hanoi was Jung's last day before heading back to LA. He left a few days earlier than me. While we were in Hanoi, we both said we needed to go on a fast or something because we just ate way too much and were perfectly fine not eating anything once we got back to Seoul.

My mom, on the other hand, had other plans. Because it was Jung's last day and she's convinced he's not going to be back for another decade, she was on a mission to stuff him silly. So our first meal since being back from Hanoi was one of our usual haunts. Usually the first meal that I have in Seoul after getting off the plane is boo kukgook (dried pollack fish soup) at Boo Kukgook Jip.

I honestly don't like boo kukgook all that much. My grandmother would cook it for us from time to time growing up, but dried pollack fish soup ... it's not really my thing. But there is something about the boo kukgook at this place that is so good and so addicting.

You tend to see an older crowd here with a scattering of some police officers from a police station nearby who are starting off their day with this hot bowl of soup. I've also seen some Japanese tourists with a small book in hand that have managed to find this jewel as well. Who tipped them off? I feel like not that many people know about this place, but I guess the secrets out if random Japanese tourists are lining up outside.

I think it's the combination of the really tasty soup with the side dishes that make this place so special. One without the other would not be as satisfying. First of all, the soup is quite simple, it has soft tofu, egg, dried pollack, green onions and some black pepper. The only thing you add to this soup is some salted shrimp that that they have on each table to season it.

Here's the huge vat where they cook this soup.

They give you a plate for your side dishes, which are conveniently stored in metal canisters on each table. You just take out the amount you want to eat on a separate plate. It saves the hassle of the waitress refilling the side dishes for you. The cucumber pickle kimchi, cabbage kimchi and the chive kimchi are all really good.

The combo of salty and savory kimchi with the mild, soothing taste of the boo kukgook is pretty amazing. Their cold water kimchi is quite good too.

It's kind of hard to give proper directions here because we always drive, but it's near City Hall and the big grass park where they do performances and fairs. It's across from the Kolon building. There's a stretch of open field, you walk towards the other side and you will see a brick wall like this.

It's hard to tell from this picture, but you enter from the two double doors next to the yellow and green awning.

Boo Kukgook Jip
(02) 777-3891

Spam Taste Test

Question: What causes a grown woman to shriek with glee at a supermarket in Seoul?

Answer:

My grandparent's apartment building has a grocery store on the first floor so whenever we're bored or hungry, we would just go downstairs and find things to eat. It's especially neat when you find things you can't find in the states. Like Spam Singles with mozzarella chicken, fresh onion and sweet potato flavors. My cousins and I were really curious to see what it would taste like, so we bought one of each and did a taste test.

Starting from the top, going clockwise was the onion, mozzarella chicken and sweet potato spam. The charring was my own doing, so don't worry, it didn't come like that.

I had my cousins try each one and try to guess which was which. The mozzarella chicken was a dead giveaway since it's lighter in color.

It was kind of funny to see my cousins' faces change from intrigue to befuddlement to disgust in a matter of seconds. I had to taste them for myself though. Maybe they just don't appreciate Spam like I do.

Dear friends, I am sad to report that these Spam Singles were the single biggest let down of 2010. I really wanted to like it, in fact, so much so that I was calculating in my head how many packages of Spam Singles I could fit in my spare carry on luggage bag that I brought with me to Seoul. Good thing we did a taste test before I committed to buying their whole stock.

The onion one had an unpleasant, artificial aftertaste and you could barely taste the sweet potato flavor to begin with, but once you started trying to exude all the sweet potato flavor from the spam with the surface area of your tongue, you begin to realize the utter foolishness you are partaking in. The mozzarella chicken one tasted the best out of the three, but it tasted like ham and cheese to me, in which case, I'd rather buy a slice of real ham and cheese rather than eat it in this coagulated form.

I'm not really sure what the Spam people were thinking when they came up with this concept. I guess you could get a clue from the pictures on the packaging, but why would you put pieces of mozzarella chicken spam in a Caprese salad? I guess you can make a spam onion sandwich, but just use a real onion for goodness sake. And pieces of spam in a baked sweet potato, that's just weird.

I guess I should have looked at the packaging a bit more closely, but I was blind sighted by my love of all things Spam and all things weird and the excitement of the new discovery got the best of me. I learned my lesson though, why fix something that isn't broken. I will just stick to my classic blue can of Spam, thank you very much.

Fun Finds at the Supermarket in Seoul

I am of the rare camp that actually likes going grocery shopping, so going to a supermarket in Seoul is loads of fun for me. Look at this array of yogurt drinks. It totally reminds me of when I was little and would visit my grandparents' place in Seoul and we'd hear the echo of the yogurt lady as she went floor by floor of the apartment building. My cousins and I would rush to the door whenever we heard her and request bottles of bottles of yakult (야쿠르트). Anywhoo, clearly the selection has definitely increased since then.

Since they started importing or making yakult in the states, it no longer holds the same fascination. So now I've directed that energy into consuming lots and lots of yogurts and flavored milks whenever I'm in Korea. They have so many different kinds and they are all so yummy. My cousins buy a bunch of the mochachino milk drinks to take back to the states whenever they leave. I rarely drink milk in the states, but I guzzle so much milk and dairy products in Korea I'm surprised I haven't turn into a baby cow.

Here's their selection of canned tuna and Spam. What would Koreans do without Spam?

Did you know they have garlic spam?

Here's a Spam wannabe. "Curry Pam" and "Spicy Pam." Clearly Koreans love their Spam and Pam products.

Boxed individual servings of soju ... as if they really needed to give people more reason to carry around juice boxes of soju.

You better believe Jung bought a whole bunch of these to take back to the states, along with probably 30 liters of makgeolli (Korean rice wine) and other liquor that he claims he can't get in the states. Soju by the way is really cheap here. Like $1 a bottle at the market, which is the price of my banana milk. No wonder people drink so much booze here. Soju is supposed to be distilled from fermented grain, but most brands use highly distilled ethanol, dilute it with water and add some sugar or aspartame. The real stuff, as Jung claims, comes from the city of Andong. We unfortunately discovered this fact after he left and I had no such luck finding Andong soju at our neighborhood market to bring back for him. Here's a peek of different makgeollis at the market, it's really popular in Korea these days. They have all sorts of different flavors too, ranging from sweet potato to pine nuts to even root vegetables. FYI - the root vegetable one is weird.

Fruits and vegetables at the supermarket are packaged super fancy because they are quite expensive if you purchase them at the supermarket and even more so if you're at the department store's supermarket.

Look at the melons and pineapples craddled like delicate eggs. The price of one melon with a ribbon on top. $20. I kid you not.

One mango imported from Thailand was 10,000 won, which is about $8. Craziness.

Korean department stores are pretty over the top in general, if you couldn't tell already. I am a lover of the H2O but even I wouldn't go to a water bar.